Is Prep Really the Most Important Step?
Read on and then you can decide.......As eager as you might be to slap on whatever makeup you can to make yourself look or feel better, what good is it to you if it looks obvious, uneven or worse still, IT DOESN’T LAST.
Let me talk you through some of WOW’s favourite products for preparing the skin, why we think it’s so important and the difference it makes.
Skincare is a vital part of your daily and professional routine so make sure you don’t skip it in a hurry to get creative.
Firstly let me tell you that Oh So Wow is NOT sponsored by any skincare brand so all the products mentioned are personal favourites of ours and our industry professionals.
There are 4 Key Skin Attributes that you should consider when selecting a range of skincare, either for yourself or for a client.
- Moisture and Oil- Dryness v's Oiliness
- Sensitivity - Acne, Rosaecia, Stinging, Allergic
- Pigmentation - Eveness of skin tone caused by the production of Melanin
- Texture - Intinsic Factors (Aging/ Genetic), Extrinsic Factors (Environment/ Lifestyle)
We know what it’s like dragging your kit around with you to jobs so we’ll give you a basic outline of makeup kit skincare essentials and the steps you should take when prepping the skin.
Usually every makeup artist will have some good face wipes in their kit. They are excellent for quick fixes and snappy changes. Toner is handy for removing any bits of residue on the skin and tightening up pores, especially if your clients skin is oily. A cheap and cheerful toning alternative is Boots Witchhazel, which is great for oily skin and Boots Glycerin and Rosewater which is perfect for dry, sensitive skin. If your client is going on camera for Film or TV this can be a nice step in controlling oil and reducing pore visibility. The French brand Bioderma is also a hugely popular cleanser amongst makeup artists.
When working in media or theatre Serum is not something that needs to be included in your kit however moisturiser is. For Bridal and Fashion serum can be a nice touch and the better care you take of models skin around Fashion Week the nicer they will be to you, Dermalogica Barrier Repair Cream always gets a sigh of relief! Sometimes you’re not given a huge amount of time to get your client camera ready, so be very selective of the products you put on their skin. A rich, heavy product will take too long to sink into the skin and will in turn look greasy on camera. Usually a light, hydrating lotion around the face will prevent the skin from drying out and some oil control down the T-Zone will help keep oilier areas matte. In many cases skin should be, plump, hydrated, have a healthy glow and look balanced. A cult classic moisturiser is Elizabeth Arden 8hr cream and another firm pro favourite is Embryolisse. My personal favourite essential is Fix+ Hydrating Spray from MAC as it instantly absorbs into the skin, energising and hydrating it without weighing it down and making it oily. It’s also suitable for all skin types.
This is an ABSOLUTE MUST when working in Film and TV especially if the actor has oily skin. Blot Papers are handy and light for your kit but instant oil absorbing gels and creams tend to do the trick. No.7 and other pharmacy brands have good mattifying products but Makeup Forever and Mac are also good brand names to buy from. Translucent powder seals your makeup in, reduces shine and really adds to the longevity of your makeup.
A fine veil of primer over the skin can mean the difference between an even, long lasting finish and a makeup that slips off half way through the shoot. There are so many primers out there for varying skin types and finishes, so how do you choose the best ones for your kit?
The most popular ones on the market are Laura Mercier, MAC and Makeup Forever with some stiff competition coming in from lower budget brands like L’Oreal, No.7 and E.L.F. Some primers control shine, others add luminosity and some even colour correct. For the basics I’d have one pearlescent primer for glow such as MAC Skin Base and one mattifying primer for oilier skin No.7 Shine Free is a great reliable. Colour correctors are awesome but can weigh you down unnecessarily, I tend to turn to yellow based or pink based concealers to cool down or warm up a skin tone.
KEEPING IT PERSONAL
Making your clients skin look and feel fabulous is one thing but what about your own skin? I did the rounds of the Oh So Wow crew and discovered some of our lovely ladies’ skincare favourites. Natalie our Nail ninja has found that being over 40 has really helped her discover what brands make a difference and what ones really don’t. Natalie’s ultimate essential is Creme de la Mer The Concentrate, which is a concentrated serum that is applied before moisturiser. When asked why this was such an effective product she admitted that it really made a difference in reducing the appearance of AGE SPOTS and DISCOLOURATION and since you only need a little bit, it's expensive but it really does lasts for ages!
For those with more sensitive skin our favourite makeup guru Rachel recommends Aveeno products. The naturally active ingrediants of Oats help to rebuild and protect the skins lipid barrier which, when depleated leads to irritation and dryness.
The skincare queen and Oh So Wow sweetheart Emily divulged some of her skincare secrets, “The one item I can't live without is Karin Herzog (husband and wife creation - they are both respected surgeons) Vita A Kombi 3. For amazing results on acne, blemishes, hyperpigmentation, scars, burns, sun damage, ageing & cellulite and skin healing [...] (peroxide by varying levels is the magic ingredient). A friend of mine who suffered greatly from Acne as a teenager found great results when he used Benzoyl Peroxide and hasn’t looked back since. He greatly recommended checking out the website www.acne.org.
Some of Emily’s favourite products also include Calamine lotion to soothe and reduce redness. If you’re keen on natural products why not check out Holland and Barrett’s Manuka Honey skincare range or their Aloe Vera gel. One thing we can’t emphasise enough is to ensure that there is some sun protection included in your daily regimen. A high SPF/ UVA and UVB protection like No. 7’s Age Spot Protection Face Cream with its Spf 50 is ideal.
Do you have any personal favourites you'd like to share with us all ?